Street food chana masala — chickpeas dry-coated in an intense spice masala. Not the restaurant gravy version. The version served in paper cones at every chaat stall in India.
There are two distinct versions of chana masala. The restaurant version is a saucy curry — the same technique as chole. The street food version is semi-dry: chickpeas coated in an intensely spiced, slightly tangy masala with little to no gravy. This is the version served with bhatura, with puri, and at every chaat stall. The key differences are more spice, less water, and the use of anardana (pomegranate powder) and black salt for the characteristic street-food tang.
If using dried chickpeas: soak overnight, pressure cook with tea bag for 6 whistles. Drain, reserve some liquid. If using tinned: simmer with tea bag 15 minutes, drain.
As with chole, the tea bag adds tannins that stain the chickpeas a characteristic dark colour while adding mild astringency. Tannins bind to the chickpea's outer coat proteins via hydrogen bonds, producing colour that persists through the subsequent masala cooking without washing out.
Fry cumin seeds in oil. Add onion, cook 12 minutes until golden. Add ginger, cook 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, chana masala, Kashmiri chilli, coriander, turmeric. Bhuno on high until oil separates — 10 minutes.
The chana masala spice blend contains black cardamom, whose camphor-like volatile compounds (cineole) are heat-stable relative to other aromatics — they benefit from the longer bhuno rather than being destroyed by it. Adding the complex spice blend at the bhuno stage allows each component to undergo its optimal extraction — oil-soluble terpenes extract into the fat phase, water-soluble compounds extract into the tomato water, and volatile aromatics concentrate as water evaporates.
Add chickpeas to masala. Add only 100ml of cooking liquid — keep this semi-dry. Mash 20% of chickpeas. Cook 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Add amchur, anardana, kala namak, garam masala. Cook 2 more minutes. Finish with coriander, green chilli slices and ginger julienne.
Kala namak (black salt) contains hydrogen sulphide — the same compound responsible for the smell of hard-boiled eggs. In small quantities, this sulphurous note contributes the distinctive savoury, slightly eggy character that defines street-food chaat. It is not a substitute for regular salt — it is a flavour compound that cannot be replicated by any other ingredient. The three-sour combination (amchur + anardana + kala namak) creates the complex, layered tanginess that characterises North Indian street food.