The unexpected smoky flavour
Why curry tastes smoky — three causes of accidental smokiness
A faint smokiness in curry can be desirable — the dhungar (coal smoking) technique deliberately adds smoke to dal makhani and biryani. But unexpected, unintended smokiness is a problem signal. It almost always comes from one of three sources: oil heated past its smoke point, onions or garlic catching and burning briefly during cooking, or a scorched pan base that has been scraped back into the dish.
The Science
What happens when oil exceeds its smoke point?
When oil is heated past its smoke point, triglycerides break down into glycerol and free fatty acids. The glycerol further breaks down into acrolein — a volatile, acrid compound with a distinctly smoky, unpleasant flavour. Acrolein is also a mild irritant to the respiratory tract — the stinging sensation in your eyes when oil smokes is acrolein. Once acrolein has formed and been absorbed into food, it cannot be removed. This is why overheated oil must be discarded and replaced rather than corrected.
35 second read
The Fix
How to handle unexpected smokiness
- If the smoke came from the oil before anything else was added: discard oil, wipe pan, start with fresh oil at lower temperature
- If mild smokiness is already in a finished curry: add a pinch of sugar and squeeze of lemon — competing flavours reduce smoke perception
- If deliberately adding smoke: dhungar technique — place a small piece of charcoal in foil in the centre of the curry, add a few drops of ghee, cover immediately and allow to smoke for 3–4 minutes
- Prevention: use ghee (smoke point 250°C) or refined oil (smoke point 220°C) rather than butter or unrefined oils