Punjab's thick, tangy yogurt curry with deep-fried onion pakoras. Richer and more robust than Gujarati kadhi. The anti-curdling technique and pakora crunch science explained.
Punjabi kadhi pakora is a completely different dish from Gujarati kadhi — it is thicker, more robust, less sweet and includes deep-fried onion pakoras simmered in the curry until they absorb the yogurt gravy. The yogurt base uses a higher ratio of besan to yogurt, producing a significantly thicker consistency. The pakoras must be crispy when made but are intentionally softened by simmering in the kadhi — the contrast between the crispy exterior surface and the softened, gravy-soaked interior is the defining textural experience.
Mix besan, sliced onion, green chilli, ajwain, chilli powder and salt. Add water gradually to make a thick batter — the onion should be coated, not swimming. Deep fry in hot oil (175°C) in small clusters for 3–4 minutes until deep golden. Drain and set aside.
Ajwain (carom seeds) in pakora batter does two things: it adds a distinctive flavour and its thymol compound inhibits the gluten network slightly, producing a lighter, crispier texture. The thick batter (versus a thin batter) produces more besan coating per pakora, which is essential for the characteristic dense, chewy interior that contrasts with the crispy exterior.
Whisk 4 tablespoons besan into yogurt until smooth. Add water, turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Whisk until uniform.
Punjabi kadhi uses a higher besan-to-yogurt ratio than Gujarati kadhi because it needs to be thicker. The additional besan provides more starch to protect the yogurt proteins from curdling at the higher concentration. It also produces a more pronounced besan flavour that is characteristic of the Punjabi version.
Pour the kadhi into a heavy pan. Cook on low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk, for 20–25 minutes until it reaches a thick, flowing consistency. Do not rush or increase heat.
Punjabi kadhi needs longer cooking than Gujarati because it is thicker — the higher besan content requires more time for starch gelatinisation to complete throughout the mixture. The constant stirring prevents the denser mixture from settling and burning at the bottom.
Add fried pakoras to the simmering kadhi. Cook 5–8 minutes until pakoras have absorbed some kadhi and softened slightly on the outside while remaining somewhat firm inside.
The pakoras absorb the yogurt-based kadhi, swelling slightly as the besan in their batter rehydrates. The exterior becomes soft while the dense interior, having already been sealed by deep frying, retains a different texture. This double texture — absorbed exterior, distinct interior — is the intended result.
Heat ghee until very hot. Add mustard seeds, cumin, hing, curry leaves and dried red chillies. Remove from heat, add chilli powder and immediately pour over the kadhi. Serve hot.
The final tadka poured over Punjabi kadhi is more intensely flavoured than the Gujarati version — the red chilli powder added off the heat produces a bloom of colour and heat that sits on the surface of the thick kadhi.