The licorice spice
Star anise — the licorice note in Indian cooking
Star anise (chakra phool) is used more selectively in Indian cooking than most other whole spices — it appears primarily in biryani, some meat curries, and certain garam masala blends, rather than as a universal tadka spice. Understanding when it belongs and when it doesn't requires understanding its primary compound: trans-anethole, which it shares with fennel seeds but at higher concentration, producing a more assertive, less subtle anise character.
The Science
Why does star anise belong in biryani but not in most everyday curries?
Star anise contains 80–90% trans-anethole in its essential oil — a high concentration that produces a strongly assertive, sweet-licorice character. In biryani, this character integrates with the rich fat and complex spice profile of the rice and meat — the sweet anise note provides contrast to savoury elements. In simpler everyday curries, the same strongly assertive character overwhelms the more delicate cumin-coriander-turmeric balance. Star anise works where it has complexity to balance against; it dominates where the overall profile is simpler.
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Star Anise in Indian Cooking
Where it works and where it doesn't
- Biryani: 1–2 whole stars per biryani serving 4–6. Added to the rice cooking water or ghee before adding rice. Removed before serving.
- Slow-cooked meat (rogan josh, nihari, paya): 1 star per dish — provides sweet depth alongside the cardamom and cinnamon in the whole-spice foundation.
- Some garam masala blends: 1 star in a large batch of garam masala provides subtle anise depth. Not universal — many traditional garam masalas omit it.
- Not for everyday dal or vegetable curry: the assertive anise character overwhelms the lighter spice balance of these dishes.